![]() ![]() When you are done using the Sandflex blocks, clean the surface up to be sure the abrasives are gone (right) and apply your favorite cast iron protectant. It just makes sense to remove (left) whatever you have been protecting the iron with. Then after wiping the surface clean and letting it dry thoroughly we can go to the Sandflex Hand Blocks. I have gone over my table saw several times with mineral spirits to be sure I had everything off. Mineral spirits usually does the trick but read the container of the material that you have been using. Since most of us have been applying wax or some other material to the cast iron surface to protect it and keep it slick, we need to get all of that off first. We can get a remarkable finish on old or heavily used cast iron this way and get rid of many spots and stains but if you encounter a scratch or gouge, move on and resist the temptation to keep sanding on that spot! Wash First This kind of refurbishing described here is not meant to repair scratches and gouges. After cleaning up that trouble spot I go over that spot and the rest of the table with the fine grit block.Īs always, we want to be very careful about removing iron as that will start a tiny depression that can become more pronounced as refurbish the surface in the future. Barry says he uses the fine grit but I have also used the medium grit for “problem” spots. Flip the blocks over frequently while working to help keep the abrasive working at its best. ![]() As you use up the abrasive on the outside layer new abrasive is exposed below it. ![]() The Sandflex blocks are essentially a rubber block with abrasive mixed in throughout the rubber, inside and out. Like many of you I used to use the abrasive pad (left) but am now sold on the Sandflex blocks! when refurbishing cast iron it is important to move the block with the grinding marks (right) usually running front to back on table saws.Īt the heart of this process is the Sandflex Hand Block which is available in coarse, medium and fine grits. That need along with his engineering-based understanding of the iron itself helped him develop this cast iron refurbishing procedure. In addition to managing two of the most popular woodworking tool lines in the world Barry is also a long-time woodworker who has had to maintain his own cast iron. The procedure described here was given to by Barry Schwaiger, Director of Product Management – Woodworking for the venerable JET and Powermatic power tool lines. We can’t re-grind our cast iron in our shops but there is a way to restore much of the original finish appearance with simple tools and some effort by the cheap help – us. How much you see it later depends on how soon you catch it. That means that you will probably still be able to see that spot to some degree. Cleaning away the red-colored rust will improve the appearance to some degree but some metal has already been lost. We also have to make it clear that the red-colored stuff you recognize as rust actually is cast iron that has been converted by the corrosive process to rust. It is important to note that the only way to cure everything woodworkers can do to iron surfaces is to have them surface ground which is hugely expensive and just not practical in most cases. Everyday use can leave fine scuffs while lots of other common procedures can leave a stain or spot of rust on the surface of the iron. I get a bunch of emails every month asking for “the correct” way to refresh the surfaces of the cast iron tables that attracted so many of us to our saws, jointers, planers, drill presses and more. Resurfacing Cast Iron Tables Combating the results of everyday use The procedure described here is an easy way to clean the iron up and make it look a bunch better in the process. ![]() Every thing we use or do on our cast iron tables can cause a stain, spot or scuff. ![]()
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